My considerable thanks to John and the team at Pacific Long Boarder for the wonderful article they did about me and my “surfing” this month. I guess the message is simply not to give up. If you love the ocean as I do then the set backs are just more challenges to be met. I know thats not always possible for everyone. I met a nice bloke who was a complete quadriplegic ex surfer last week. BUT he was sitting on the boat ramp watching the waves with a BIG SMILE. Its not about the cut backs, aerials, intensity, its about the joy of the sea, the friendship, the pure happiness that “paddling around” brings. SO for me ………it was very humbling to be mentioned in such a great magazine and made me very proud at the same time. Like i said, Ive been told 5 times id never surf again and am still going …….so if just one person decides to “Give it a go” ………..Ill be pretty chuffed. By the way, thanks to all who offered to help me over the rocks at the Pass. I guess i looked a bit like a turtle trying to crawl over them. I was really touched by how many people reached out.
by Colphin
